You’ve pulled the trigger and hired a contractor to renovate your bathroom! They have great reviews, been in the contractor game for a while and seem very knowledgeable. Wouldn’t it be nice to keep them in check? Be on your game and make sure they don’t skip anything that could be detrimental in the long run?
I think so!
Here are 6 shower remodel necessities for longevity!
- New valve
This is one of the first steps after the demolition of your shower. They should have everything down to the house studs – insulation and plumbing will be visible. The valve is what allows the water to pass through and is one of the main reasons for leaks occur. The new valve should last around 15-20 years!
- Cement Board
- Dura Rock Cement Board
- Hardibacker Cement Backer
- Permabase Board
All prime options to use on your shower! It is very important that your contractor does NOT put the tile directly to the drywall. I see this far too often during the demolition of my projects. When the tile isn’t installed to some type of cement board not only does the tile not stick as well but the grout allows water to pass through. Over time the drywall will get mushy and mold will begin to spread. Once mold has begun remediation is needed and is a pricey mistake!
- Water Proofing
Once the cement board is installed the important thing to watch for is waterproofing the walls. Although the cement board is able to get wet without causing damage, waterproofing keeps the water from reaching other parts of the bathroom (wood studs, flooring etc) Red Guard is a pink thick liquid (dries red, hence the name!) that keeps moisture out! Red Guard should be placed on all seems of the cement board, in soap niches and (personally) anywhere water is constantly hitting in the shower. Red Guard is also great for outside the shower for cracks in the slab before lying tile.
- Pan linear
This is one step you do not want them to miss! The pan linear should cover the entire floor of the shower to the drain and should run up the walls anywhere from 6-12 inches. It should even go over the curb, if you have one. This step guarantees the water that manages to get through will still seep into the drain.
- Floor is angled to the drain
If you have a level at home, it’s time to bust it out and use it! Once the deck mud has been poured (over the pan linear) check to see if there is a bit of a slope towards the drain. It will not be much of a slant, just enough for the water to drain. If it is flat the water will pool and lead to issues down the road!
This step leads us into…
- Benches niches and curbs all have slants
Keep that level out! Walls, curbs, soap niches and benches all need to be slanted for water to run off.
Keep an out for these steps during your remodel! Be sure to check out https://myremodel.blog/2018/10/30/8-ways-to-keep-clean-during-your-remodel/